Sunday, June 18, 2006

Highlighting can be a very stressful experience for most clients, especially when trying a new stylist. This area of our profession is truly an art form and must be viewed as such.


Why do we choose highlighting verses all over color?

Answer: Dimension and depth of color.

When coloring hair you want to create a multi-colored canvas to add as much dimension as possible. The greater variation in shade the more depth you have. It is also much more natural as real hair color is varied in both shade and depth.


How do you create this?

By properly choosing varying yet complimentary shades with enough depth variation to show dimension and add a natural feel to the hair.


Sound complicated?

Well, in the right hands its not, but as you may have experienced in the wrong hands it can be very detrimental.


So how do we get the most out of our highlighting?

The consultation is the most curtail part.

Your stylist should try and spend a majority of your consultation examine some of the following issues:

*Texture,
*Your natural color
*What shades suite your complexion
*How many shades to use
*What areas to vary shade to allow for more depth


When doing Highlights you have several options these days where lifting capabilities go.

High Lift Tints: In the old days bleach was used to lift if you were lifting more than 4 levels. Today we have highlift tints that can lift up to 6 levels without the damage. Ask your stylist to use these when ever possible to replace bleaching. This also eliminates the need for toners, which can be very drying.

Bleach:It is possible to use bleach without damage but it takes more time .

If bleaching ask your stylist to take the packets out as they process as bleach does not stop lifting as color does.

To do this they need to start checking the first packets they put in as soon as the last packet was placed in the hair. They can then use a damp towel to wipe off the bleach as the foil is removed allowing the bleach to dry under the heat and thus stop processing.

This also insures that you have a consistent shade to your highlights and no bright spots. It works well when mixing bleach and color highlights because high-lift tint processes longer than bleach.

Foiling Technique: I strongly recommend that when highlighting your stylist do vertical sections around the parameter of the hair line and not horizontal.

The reason: that this insures a very natural look when pulled back.

Horizontal packets on the hair line cause gaps and streaks.

Even if you only do partial or surface highlights I would do a very light fine weave at the back of the neck line to add consistency.

Another large concern is the actual weaving process. The smaller and closer the weave the more natural the hair will look. And is will make the regrowth less visible.

Chunky weaving I do not recommend that you use chunky highlights on the part line or hair line though. As this will cuse too much visible root on grow out. dds more dimension however and you may want to do a blend of both.


The weave size and choice of shades are your primary concern as this directly determines how natural or unnatural your hair will look.


It is up to you to decide what matches your personality and lifestyle.

Color today is generally less bold and more subtle and is used to accentuate ones natural hair and complexion.


Even Blondes are toning down a bit.


As for whether or not Highlights are right for you: Most everyone can utilize some type of dimensional color.

Remember:

*you do not need to do dimensional color all over.
*You can use it to bring out areas such as the sides to add depth thus making the eyes and
cheek bones more pronounced.
*Add to the front top to add an illusion of sun lightening and add brightness to the face

Before proceeding you should discuss this service in-depth with your stylist and look at all options and examine areas such as maintenance and upkeep.

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